What the F is… Bakuchiol?
Another working week, another retinol alternative… Right now we’re talking bakuchiol.
Firstly (and fairly), how do you even say that? Pronounced ‘back-uh-heel’, bakuchiol is ‘a compound found in the seeds of the Indian plant Psoralea corylifolia’, explains Dr.Anjali Mahto.
WHAT IS BACKUCHIOL?
Bakuchiol is a compound found in the seeds of the Indian plant Psoralea corylifolia, which has been found to have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and potentially even anti-acne activity. It is seeing a lot of interest from the beauty and skincare industry as the demand for plant-based or botanical ingredients grows.
HOW DOES IT WORK?
Bakuchiol has been shown to activate a number of chemical pathways in skin cells that ultimately lead to improved collagen production, decreased collagen breakdown and reduction of melanin (pigment) synthesis. The overall aesthetic effect seems to be an improvement in fine lines, wrinkles and pigmentation which are commonly associated with the natural ageing process of the skin.
HOW IS IT DIFFERENT FROM REGULAR RETINOL?
Bakuchiol seems to work in a similar manner to retinol but appears to have the added advantage of causing less irritation such as peeling, dryness or sensitivity.
ARE THERE ANY DRAWBACKS TO USING IT?
Retinoids are some of the most widely studied compounds in topical skincare, with numerous clinical studies demonstrating benefit. In comparison, bakuchiol is definitely the “new kid on the block” and, while initial results appear promising, more studies and research are required to see how well the ingredient will stand the test of time.
1% Bakuchiol Booster, £12, BYIB
Miracle Facial Oil, £82, OMOROVICZA
Bio Retinoid Anti-Wrinkle Concentrate Oil, £47, REN
Dr.Anjali Mahto MBBCh BSc MRCP (Derm) is a dermatologist at Cadogan Clinic