The sun was setting as I closed my eyes and shook my body to the beat of the music drifting through the still-warm evening air. Standing on a platform next to the sea, I could see ocean the colour of mouthwash scramble onto a pale swathe of sand.

Around me, a crowd of other people were also moving to the cosmic playlist. We were pulsing en masse, jumping up and down, eyes closed and feeling the warmth of the sun’s last rays on our faces.

Orchestrating our moves was not a DJ — though there were plenty of those on this idyllic island — but Patrick Broome, a yoga instructor and former psychologist from Munich. His soothing words of encouragement had somehow enticed us into shaking out our bodies for 20 minutes, gradually feeling the energy rise up through our chakras until we reached total euphoria.

Picture credit: Sebastian Barros

EMBRACE NATURE

Welcome to Obonjan in Croatia, derelict for a decade and for many years an uninhabited island, that strikes the unusual balance of being both a wellness retreat and a summer party venue. British co-founder Dan Blackledge created Croatia’s Unknown and Hideout festivals, and has leased the island for the next 44 years, signalling the long-term visions and ambitions for this Croatian one-of-a-kind isle. Its festival vibe means it has a relaxed but upbeat atmosphere – with incredible views to boot.

I was visiting during the Wanderlust week, which ran from July 26-30 this summer. This US-based festival is a celebration of mindful living and brings together some of the world’s best yoga and meditation teachers, speakers, musicians and artists in some of the world’s most spectacular locations.

And Obonjan (pronounced ‘O-bon-yan’) was spectacular indeed. Surrounded by the translucent Adriatic Sea, it’s a hotbed of nature, with pine forests, secret coves and unspoiled sunsets on tap. And at just 1.5km long, it also only accommodates up to 500 guests, so you never feel too crowded.

The island is still relatively unbuilt – clearly a conscious effort by the founders to retain Croatia’s magical landscape. Sustainability is important, too. Blackledge is working towards making Obonjan carbon neutral, but I felt there was too much plastic on the island so there is still a long way to go. The world may be Obonjan’s oyster, but it is still in its infancy. This may be part of its charm, but don’t expect 5* slickness, like the photos on the website suggest. This place is all about authenticity, being in nature and the amazing practitioners and classes on offer.

by Sebastian Barros

FORCE OF NATURE

To get here from Sibenik, 80km from Split, I swapped the usual 40-minute ferry journey for a thrilling, 20-minute ride by private speedboat. Coasting along the waves, the wind in our hair, we spotted an abandoned fort, uninhabited islands and even a dolphin (the common bottlenose is frequent in the Adriatic’s eastern coast).

It was our first glimpse of nature, but more was in store. As soon as we docked at the island’s East Harbour, the intense whirring of crickets high up in the trees was audible. Serving as a brain toner, much like binaural sound healing, stimulating the pituitary gland, regulating blood pressure and reducing stress.

The sensation of being immersed in my natural environment only increased when I checked into the accommodation, one of the safari tent-style “lodges” scattered among a forest of sweet-smelling pine trees (from €65 per person per night).

Though basic, it was kitted out with modern comforts such as air conditioning and electricity, plus proper beds and sheets. There was even a fridge and a spotless ensuite bathroom with a shower, and an inside seating area. Homely touches included tasteful rugs and cream rope wall hangings. Although designed to sleep up to four people, it was cosy enough with just two of us.

But the real highlight was the large outdoor terrace. With forest behind and ocean in front, it was the perfect place to unwind in a deckchair, read a book, meditate or simply watch the sun blaze orange and crimson across the water.

by Sebastian Barros

LOVE ISLAND

What sets Obonjan apart is the quality of the visiting practitioners – I experienced some of the best yoga classes and wellness sessions I’ve ever tried. Along with Patrick Broome, special guests during my visit included Michael James Wong, founder of Boys of Yoga and Just Breathe.

He led some empowering morning yoga classes on the forest platform. As we stood in tree pose, he guided the group to hold hands, which seemed to galvanise a sense of oneness. It was a sentiment that resonated with the group and somehow captured the essence of the whole place.

The daily wellness offering was extensive with standout workshops including Alchemical Sound healing with singing bowls, shamanic singing, stand-up paddleboarding and brilliantly informative sessions on the power of plants, hosted by Pukka Herbs. The island’s Zen Den had complimentary cups of herbal tea waiting for guests, as well as treatment rooms overlooking the ocean.

If you’re keen to feel as though you’re wrapped up in a giant hug, book a holistic wellness massage with Jade Jasmin who lulled me into a deep state of relaxation with her magical hands, releasing all the tension in my back, neck and shoulders in the open-air treatment room.

Also highly recommended is the reiki healing session with Joanna Lewins (Love Yogi), which was a multi-sensory experience combining sound vibrations, sacred smells and crystal healing.

While there was wellness by day, there was party by night. If you loved Ibiza 10 years ago, before it got commercialised, you’ll fall in love with this place. Perhaps that explains why the crowd is more grown-up than on the White Isle, since it attracts people who have already done their hardcore partying, but who still want to have a good time.

On a critical note, the drinks are absurdly expensive and organisers need to address this if they want to avoid guests bringing their own booze over from the mainland. But at least all the yoga in the world is included, which helps balance things out.

There were nightly parties in the Forest Bar, a fun spot where DJs played beneath a canopy of trees. On my first night, we danced to legendary soul singer Roy Ayers, who performed in the stone-built amphitheatre. With its distinctly social scene, this is definitely somewhere best visited with friends rather than alone.

The following day, sore heads were eased by lounging at the large pool area, watching a synchronized swim by Swim Dem Crew, a London-based community which encourages people who would not normally swim to get into the water.

Picture credit: Sebastian Barros

ISLE BE BACK

Obonjan is also an ideal base from which to explore neighbouring islands, so I booked onto a one-day island hopping tour with Cheap Taxi Boat. The highlight of the trip was lunch at Zlarin Apartments, a family-run B&B, where we feasted on the most flavoursome tomatoes, green figs, risotto with fresh clams and barbecued sea bass, seasoned only with rosemary. It was the most delicious fish I’ve ever eaten.

Back on Obonjan, the sky was turning fuschia as another day surrendered to night. Yoga mats were rolled away as the DJ booths were rolled back in. A smattering of stars was beginning to emerge as the first beats floated on the air. And I was ready to let go again.

The summer season at Obonjan ends on 9 September. Prices for 2017 start at €32.50 per person per night. To book early for next year, keep an eye on Obonjan Island.

Photographs by Sebastian Barros